Cosmetic compact or creme powder

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic compact or cream powder which is provided with self-tanning agent and optionally light-protecting characteristics. The dihydroxy acetone (DHA) portion of said powder is fully used for coloration. The cosmetic powder contains a self-tanning agent selected from mixtures of DHA and aqueous mahakanni extract and mixtures of DHA with mahakanni and tulips extract, additional chromophore pigments, a wax or a mixture of several waxes, a powder basis and optionally additional cosmetic auxiliaries and active agents in stable homogeneous distribution. The inventive powder is produced by mixing the powder basis and a first portion of the pigments with the molten wax. The self-tanning agent and a second portion of the pigments in an aqueous-alcoholic suspension having a pH value ranging from 3-4 are subsequently added into the molten was mixture at 65 to 70° C. The entire mixture is steered, homogenised and cooled.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application is a national stage of PCT/DE01/00953 filed Mar. 8,2001 and based upon DE 100 15 363.1 filed Mar. 23, 2000 under theInternational Convention.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The invention relates to a cosmetic compact or cream powder which hasself-tanning and optionally light-protecting characteristics.

2. Description of the Related Art

It is known to produce dihydroxy acetone (DHA) based self-tanners in theform of various liquid emulsions or gels. In many cases however, furtheradditives are necessary in order to stabilize these products. Forexample, EP-B-752842 describes a DHA composition which contains certainsulphite salts and optionally amino acids. According to WO96/31190, DHAis combined with lecithins and optionally sterols and then heated in anaqueous solution and encapsulated in liposomes in order to obtain astable product.

In regard to the manufacture of pressed powders or cream powders, thereis the problem that these normally contain wax portions which have to beheated up to 60-85° C. in order to enable the other ingredients of theformulation to be added. However, DHA increasingly tends to partiallyreact with other constituents at these high temperatures so that thetanning capacity of the product is lost to a varying degree. Therefore,hardly any such powders have been manufactured to date and there are nosuch products available on the market.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The object of the invention is to provide compact or cream powders whichhave a very good coloration effect based on self-tanning agents whichare distributed in a stable, homogeneous manner and in which thedihydroxy acetone portion is fully used for coloration.

According to the invention, the cosmetic compact or cream powderconsists of a self-tanning agent selected from among mixtures ofdihydroxy acetone (DHA) and mahakanni (Eclipta alba Hassk) extract andmixtures of DHA, mahakanni extract and tulips extract, additionalchromophore pigments, a wax or a mixture of several waxes, a powder baseand optionally additional cosmetic auxiliaries and active agents instable homogeneous distribution, the mahakanni extract being an aqueousextract containing 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon and eumelanin and thetulips extract being an aqueous extract from tulips exposed to UVradiation containing thymine and pyrimidine dimers and mixtures thereof.

The use of a mixture of DHA and mahakanni is particularly advantageous.mahakanni is a natural tanning colour obtained from the mahakanni plant(Eclipta alba Hassk) which substantially consists of2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon and Eumelanin and which brings about aparticularly natural brown skin colour. The exact Latin name is Ecliptaalba Hassk (Syn) Eclipta prostata.

The self-tanning effect can be increased by adding a tulips extract(Tulipa; from garden tulips and wild tulips, particularly DNA-rich tulipspecies). The said extract has high contents of dimers and nucleotidesand is produced and marketed by Greentech, St. Beauzire, France underthe name TULIPA NUCLEOTIDS. The extract has high contents in the rangeof 8-40% by weight of thymine and/or pyrimidine dimers and brings abouta clear pigmentation effect when applied on to the skin.

Preferably, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon is contained in the range of37-42% by weight and Eumelanin is contained in the range of 47-52% byweight relative to the total content of the constituents contained inthe mahakanni extract.

The mahakanni extract further contains ascorbic acid, lecithins,shpingomyelin, β-carotene and phosphosphingolipid in an overallconcentration ranging from 7 to 10% by weight relative to the totalweight of the extract.

The mahakanni extract, which is preferably encapsulated in liposomes,can be used in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relativeto the total weight of the powder. The extract has a refractive index of1.4-1.5 and does not contain any isoflavonoids.

The tulips extract, which can also be encapsulated in liposomes, isadded into the powder in concentrations ranging from 0.5 to 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the powder.

The DHA concentration is in the range of 0.1-5% by weight relative tothe total weight of the powder.

The powder according to the invention can further contain a sunscreen inthe form of a UV filter.

The invention enables substantially the whole portion of theself-tanning agent to be effective within the formulation and to avoidor considerably delay losses or side reactions of the DHA. Inparticular, a correct pH value of the premix, i.e. a mixture made up ofpart of the pigments, DHA and optionally the sunscreen, considerablycontributes to that the mixture can be added in a problem-free mannerand a stable formulation is obtained. The pH value can be influenced asnecessary by adding known, cosmetically acceptable pH adjusters such asEDTA, acetic acid, citric acid, etc.

By avoiding reaction-induced losses, the content of chromophoreconstituents, particularly DHA, can be adjusted much more precisely, notto say it becomes possible for the first time to almost exactly adjustthe concentration of the said constituents.

The overall content of self-tanning agents is in the range of 1-15% byweight relative to the entire composition, the mixture containing max.5% by weight of DHA, 10% by weight of mahakanni extract and 10% byweight of tulips Extract. There are no restrictions as regards themiscibility of mahakanni extract and tulips extract with one another andthe respective quantities are determined in accordance with the tanningeffect desired. The same is true of the miscibility of the two extractswith DHA.

Substances which can be selected as pigments, pigment mixtures orpowders having a pigment-like effect, including such ones which have agloss effect, include e.g. iron oxides, natural aluminium silicates suchas Ochre, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Silica, Mica, Kaolin, clayscontaining manganese such as Umber and Red Bole, Calcium Carbonate,Talc, Mica-Titanium Oxide, Mica-Titanium Oxide-Iron Oxide, BismuthOxychloride, nylon globules, ceramic globules, expanded and non-expandedsynthetic polymer powders, powdery natural organic compounds such asground solid algae, ground parts of plants, encapsulated andnon-encapsulated cereal starches and mica-titanium oxide-organic colour.

For the aqueous-alcoholic pigment solution or suspension, monovalentalcohols are used, e.g. ethanol, iso-propanol, n-propanol or mixturesthereof. Polyvalent alcohols can also be used, e.g. glycerine, a propanediol or a butane diol, advantageously also a mixture of two or morethereof.

The alcohol concentration is in the range of 1-10% by volume relative tothe pigment solution or suspension.

Preferably, Octyl Methoxycinnamate is used as organic sunscreen(filter). Other suitable filters are Benzophenone-3, ButylMethoxybenzoylmethane or 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor or mixturesthereof. The concentration of the said filters can be in the range of1-10% by weight relative to the total weight of the powder. It has beenfound that DHA is stabilized very well if DHA and a sunscreen of theaforesaid types are present at the same time.

In addition to the alcohol-soluble organic sun filter, a water-solubleorganic sun filter can be contained. These include e.g. Benzophenone-3and Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid. The concentration of thesewater-soluble filters can be in the range of 2-15% by weight.

The powder according to the invention can have a Sun Protection Factorof 5 to 15 provided it contains the corresponding sun filters.

The powder according to the invention can contain further cosmeticactive agents, e.g. antioxidants or scavengers, preservatives,moisturizing substances, fragrance, polar and non-polar oils, polymers,copolymers, emulsifiers, stabilizers, plant-based active agents,polymers, anti-inflammatory natural active agents.

Antioxidants include vitamins, such as Vitamin C and derivativesthereof, e.g. ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbylpalmitate; Vitamin A and derivatives thereof; folic acid and derivativesthereof, Vitamin E and derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate;flavons or flavonoids; amino acids, such as histidine, glycine,tyrosine, tryptophan, and derivatives thereof; carotenoids andcarotenes, such as α-Carotene, β-Carotene; uric acid and derivativesthereof, α-hydroxy acids, such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid;stilbene and derivatives thereof, etc.

A particular advantageous mixture of enzymes and vitamins is adecomposition product obtained by ultrasonic decomposition of a yeast,the decomposition product containing Superoxiddismutase (SOD), Protease,Vitamin B₂, Vitamin B₆, Vitamin B₁₂, Vitamin D₂ and Vitamin E.Preferably, the said decomposition product contains at least 150 U/ml ofSOD, protease and Vitamins B and D, the ratio of SOD to protease ininternational units being in the range of at least 3:1 to 8:1.

It is particularly advantageous that the enzyme/vitamin mixture beproduced by means of an ultrasonic decomposition process which isdescribed in DE 4241154C1 and in which a cell dispersion or suspensionis passed through an ultrasonic exposure area in an ultrasonicflow-through cell, the sonotrode extending into the flow-through cell upto half or two thirds of its length and being immersed in the medium tobe exposed to ultrasound. The sonsotrode has an angle of 80.5 to 88.50°,related to the entrance surface of the sonotrode, and the ratio of thesonotrode's immersed length in mm to the volume exposed to ultrasound inml is adjusted to a value of 1:1.1 to 1:20. The portion of solid mattercontained in the medium to be exposed to ultrasound is in the range of1:0.02 to 1:2.2 (in % by weight).

Yeasts, such as baker's yeast, brewer's yeast, wine yeast as well asspecially treated yeasts, such as yeasts enriched with SOD, can be usedas cell dispersion. A preferred cell dispersion contains e.g.Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

Advantageously, a further active agent contained in the preparation canbe kaolin according to WO96/17588, which kaolin has been modified withspherical TiO₂ or SiO₂ particles the particle size of which is <5 μm,the said spherical particles making up 0.5 to 10% by weight of thekaolin mixture. In this way, the preparation feels very soft on the skinand has an additional anti-inflammatory effect.

The modified kaolin can be contained in the range of 0.1-6% by weightrelative to the total weight of the preparation.

The oils used for the invention can be common cosmetic oils, such as amineral oil; Hydrogenated Polyisobutene; Squalane produced syntheticallyor made from natural products (INCI name: Squalane, e.g. Synthesqual®,Cosbiol®) ; cosmetic esters or ethers wich can be branched or linear,saturated or unsaturated; vegetable oils; or mixtures of two or morethereof.

Depending upon the oils used, the cosmetic characteristics of the solidcomposition, such as degree of transparency, softness, hardness,spreading effect, are influenced. Thick oils are preferred.

Waxes which can be used in the powder according to the invention arenatural plant-based waxes, animal waxes, natural and synthetic mineralwaxes and synthetic waxes. These include e.g. Carnauba Wax, CandelillaWax, Beeswax, Wool Wax, Paraffin, Ceresin, Ozokerite, Silicone,polyethylene glycol waxes or polyethylene glycol ester waxes.

Powder bases are substantially round solid particles the particle sizeof which is approximately 25-110 μm and include e.g. silicates such asKaolin, Aerosil, Talc; carbonates such as magnesium carbonate, calciumcarbonate; oxides such as zinc oxide, titanium oxide; stearates such aszinc stearate, magnesium stearate, aluminium stearate; starch; proteindecomposition products such as pulverized silk; labilin; syntheticorganic polymerisation products; zinc decanate or magnesium decanate.

The water content of the creams according to the invention does notexceed 15% by weight, preferably it is below 12% by weight.

The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing the saidcompact or cream powder by mixing the powder base and optionallyadditional cosmetic auxiliaries and active agents and a first portion of90-50% by weight of the chromophore pigments with the molten wax or waxmixture, subsequently adding the self-tanning agent selected from amongmixtures of dihydroxy acetone (DHA) and mahakanni extract and mixturesof DHA, mahakanni extract and tulips extract, adding a second portion of10-50% by weight of the pigments in an aqueous-alcoholic suspensionhaving a pH value ranging from 3 to 4 into the molten wax mixture at atemperature of 65 to 70° C., stirring the entire mixture until it ishomogeneous and cooling the mixture while maintaining its homogeneity.

It is particularly critical that the pH value be correct when thesuspension is added.

Preferably, the mixture is cooled while stirring moderately and at aconstant cooling rate of 1-2° C./min in order to avoid crystallizationof the wax and maintain a homogeneous mixture.

The invention will hereinafter be explained in detail by way ofexamples. All quantities are in % by weight if not indicated otherwise.

EXAMPLE 1 Self-tanning Cream Powder I

Ceraflex 3547 1.5 Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 2 Candelilla Wax Substitute 3Synchrowax HGLC 2.3 Acide B glycerrhetinique 0.01 Nipasol M 0.2 NipagineM 0.4 α-Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 Cosmacol EOI 10 TiO₂ 5 Iron Oxide Red7054 0.4 ZnO 4 Cogilor Ochre 90076 1.5 Black 1557 0.14 SiO₂ 4 CrodamolOsu 6 Modified* Kaolin 2.5 Orgasol 20002 Extd Nat Cos 2 Boron NitrideCCS102 2 Dryflo Plus 10 Talc q.s. ad 100 Silicone Oil 6 MahakanniExtract STLC⁺ 2.5 DHA 2.5 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 1.0 Parfum 0.5 Water 12Biophilic H 3 Citric Acid q.s. *according to WO96/17588 ⁺Campo Research& Development Systems, Singapore

Processing

A solid mixture of the pigments TiO₂, ZnO, Iron Oxide, SiO₂, black andochre was prepared by slightly mixing the aforesaid ingredients anddivided into two batches of 65% by weight (pigment batch 1) and 35% byweight (pigment batch 2).

Pigment batch 1, the sun filter (here: Octyl Methoxycinnamate), theantioxidant and the parfum were added into a 3.5 vol.-%aqueous-alcoholic solution containing DHA and Mahakanni Extract andstirred at approximately 30° C. until a suspension was obtained. The pHvalue was adjusted to approximately 3.5 by adding citric acid.

The wax mixture was heated up to a melting temperature of 75-80° C. andpigment batch 2, the oils, kaolin, talc, boron nitride and thepreservatives were stirred in one after the other. Once a substantiallyhomogeneous mass had been obtained, the aforesaid suspension was slowlyadded while stirring at a temperature of 67-69° C.

Finally, the mixture was stirred at 10000-15000 rpm until it washomogeneous and cooled down to ambient temperature while stirringmoderately and at a cooling rate of 1.5° C./min. A powder mass wasobtained which is able to be pressed into moulds, which has an excellentcolour stability as regards the long-term tanning effect achieved by DHAand Mahakanni and which brings about a very natural brown colour.

EXAMPLE 2 Self-tanning Cream Powder II

Ceraflex 3547 2 Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 2 Candelilla Wax Substitute 2.5Synchrowax HGLC 2.3 Nipasol M 0.2 Nipagine M 0.4 α-Tocopherol Acetate0.5 Cosmacol EOI 8 Isopropyl Palmitate 8 TiO₂ 5 Iron Oxide Red 7054 0.4ZnO 4 Cogilor Ochre 90076 1.5 Black 1557 0.14 SiO₂ 4 Crodamol Osu 7Modified* Kaolin 2.5 Orgasol 20002 Extd Nat Cos 2 Boron Nitride CCS102 2Dryflo Plus 10 Talc q.s. ad 100 Silicone Oil 6 DHA 2.5 Mahakanni ExtractSTLC 3.5 Tulips Extract⁺ 2.5 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 3 Benzophenone-3 5.5Parfum 0.5 Water 12 Biophilic H 3 ⁺Tulipa nucleotids, Greentech, St.Beauzire, France *according to WO96/17588

Processing was done in a similar way as in Example 1. Pigment batch 2made up 28% by weight. The pH value of the aqueous-alcoholic suspensionwas 3.8. A powder mass was obtained which is able to be pressed intomoulds and which has a very good colour stability and colour intensityalthough it contains smaller amounts of self-tanning agents.

EXAMPLE 3 Compact Powder

Ceraflex 3547 1.5 Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 0.8 Candelilla Wax Substitute0.6 Nipasol M 0.2 Nipagine M 0.4 α-Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 Cosmacol EOI 1TiO₂ 5 Iron Oxide Red 7054 0.4 ZnO 0.2 Cogilor Ochre 90076 1.5 Black1557 0.14 Modified* Kaolin 4 Talc q.s. ad 100 Mahakanni Extract STLC 2.5Tulips Extract 2.5 DHA 2.5 Parfum 0.5 Water 12 Biophilic H 3 *accordingto WO96/17588

Processing was done as in Example 1. Pigment batch 2 made up 40% byweight. The pH value of the aqueous-alcoholic suspension was 3.3.

What is claimed is:
 1. A cosmetic compact or cream powder whichcomprises a self-tanning agent selected from among mixtures of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and mahakanni (Eclipta alba Hassk) extract and mixtures ofDHA, mahakanni extract and tulips extract, additional chromophorepigments, a wax or a mixture of several waxes, a powder base andoptionally additional cosmetic auxiliaries and active agents in stablehomogeneous distribution, the mahakanni extract being an aqueous extractcontaining 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon and eumelanin and the tulipsextract being an aqueous extract from tulips exposed to UV radiationcontaining thymine and pyrimidine dimers and mixtures thereof, whereinthe total content of self-tanning agents is in the range of 1-15% byweight relative to the entire composition.
 2. A cosmetic compact orcream powder according to claim 1 wherein 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthochinon iscontained in the range of 37-42% by weight and eumelanin is contained inthe range of 47-52% by weight relative to the total content of theconstituents contained in the extract.
 3. A cosmetic compact or creampowder according to claim 1 wherein the self-tanning agent is mixed witha sunscreen.
 4. A cosmetic compact or cream powder according to claim 1wherein the sunscreen is an organic alcohol-soluble sunscreen.
 5. Acosmetic compact or cream powder according to claim 3 wherein thesunscreen is contained in the range of 1-10% by weight relative to theentire powder mixture.
 6. A cosmetic compact or cream powder accordingto claim 3 wherein the mixture made up of sunscreen, self-tanning agentand pigments contains pigments in the range of 25-40% by weight relativeto the entire powder mixture.
 7. A cosmetic compact or cream powderaccording to claim 1 wherein the water content of the powder does notexceed 15% by weight.
 8. A cosmetic compact or cream powder according toclaim 1 wherein the total content of self-tanning agents is in the rangeof 1-15% by weight relative to the entire composition.
 9. A cosmeticcompact or cream powder according to claim 7 wherein the maximum contentof DHA is 5% by weight, the maximum content of mahakanni extract is 10%by weight and the maximum content of tulips extract is 10% by weight.10. A method for manufacturing the compact or cream powder according toclaim 1 which comprises the steps of mixing the powder base andoptionally additional cosmetic auxiliaries and active agents and a firstportion of 90-50% by weight of the chromophore pigments with the moltenwax or wax mixture, subsequently adding the self-tanning agent selectedfrom among mixtures of dihydroxy acetone (DHA) and mahakanni (Ecliptaalba Hassk) extract and mixtures of DHA, mahakanni extract and tulipsextract and a second portion of 10-50% by weight of the pigments in anaqueous-alcoholic suspension having a pH value ranging from 3 to 4 intothe molten wax mixture at a temperature of 65-70 C., stirring the entiremixture until it is homogeneous and cooling the mixture whilemaintaining its homogeneity.